Hong Kong - Aberdeen Waterways & Repulse Bay

The following day, upon checking my itinerary, it appeared time to check out Aberdeen, apparently there was a floating restaurant which was one of the ‘must sees’.

Rather than taking the tube, I hoped taking one of the mini vans would enable me to see a bit more of Hong Kong Island. These mini vans wait until their full (a capacity of about 12) and then head off, there is no set time, but its cheap and cheerful… and I got on the wrong one.

After about 20 minutes in the mini van, passing what looked like a wharf and then making our way up a mountain… I realised I was heading in the wrong direction – I doubted the floating restaurant would be in the jungle.

I jumped off, fortunately there were some very friendly police who found it rather entertaining where I was and where I wanted to go. During the charades conversation I was told it was a VERY long walk to where I wanted to go, but there didn’t seem to be any taxi’s in the vicinity, so I hoiked my backpack higher and plodded on down the 90 degree hill, using my nostrils to direct me toward the water.

Located on the southwest of Hong Kong Island, the town is best known for its floating restaurant, the Jumbo Restaurant being the second largest in the world, and previously, for the boat people who lived on the canals (known as the Tanka people), apparently some still remain.

Now, there is a long promenade that runs the length of the wharf along which are play sites for children, chess sets and other games set up for primarily gentleman who often gather a crowd as they play. Its said to also have restaurants along it, but these are actually on the other side of a busy road – so not as enticing as it sounds.

When I eventually arrived at the wharf the smog had descended, but I imagine on a bright day the water would be sparkling and happy tourists would create a different kind of ambience.

While I was trying to establish my bearings (ie… where is that Jumbo restaurant – left or right?) and elderly woman about three quarters the size of me came over flapping her hat at me with a gleeful grin (she had found a punter!).

“Boat! My boat!” she exclaimed, taking my elbow and leading me down the stairs toward the edge of the waterfront. I used the international sign for money by rubbing my thumb and forefinger together and raising my left eyebrow.

“Only 100! Cheap cheap! Yes? Yes?”

“Yes! Yes” I responded. She might not have much English but she sure was convincing, even if I was inclined to decline, I doubt I’d have much luck.

She plonked her wide rimmed hat  back on her head and pulled me along the promenade with almost a bounce in her step. Next she was on a small flip phone, while waving and shouting.

“That one?” I said, pointing to a regular looking motor boat,

“Haa! No no no no”, she said waving her head and smiling a toothless smile, she pointed to the hull of the boat I was indicating, “my boat!” she said proudly.

I followed her gesture and there, sneaking almost under the ‘normal’ boat chugged along a long wooden contraption that looked like something out of a Vietnamese fisheries documentary – not a tourist vehicle.

Apparently this is known as a Sampa, I have a sneaking suspicion her and her partner spend a lot of time on this, there were food products, fishing instruments and all sorts of tat beside.

She gestured me down some rickety stone stairs and I leapt onto the flat front of the rickety sea farer. Without any airs or graces by my driver we were apparently off, I sidled down to get a better grip on the vehicle and looked out as we plugged along the estuary.

As we approached the “ Jumbo Restaurant” and what I imagined was the more affluent area of Aberdeen, was passed some magnificent multi-million dollar looking yatches, I indicated to my driver which one was his, which finally got a reaction from him, a sly… “aint no way” grin.

We came to the floating restaurant which looked like… a giant floating Chinese restaurant.

Aberdeen isn’t somewhere I’d especially recommend going, the Sampan ride was fun – but then, anything water based will result in enthusiasm from me!

After the 15 minute ride was over I headed to the bus depot and jumped on the 21 hoping Google was correct this time and I’d end up at the enticingly named, “Repulse Bay”.

Research advised me that Repulse Bay was not given its name because it was… repulsive, but I decided to hold my breath until I saw it. What I found, upon arrival – yay! I’d chosen the correct bus! – was a Baliesque oceanfront, and a quiet lapping sea between mountains.

It was quiet, a few families and couples drifting from the restaurants to the beach, dogs happily scurrying leash free. I did come across a mall because, what else do you want to do when you go to the beach but shop? This is a bit of a Chinese way though.

The restaurants and bars all looked clean and well established, above my price range unfortunately, so I continued along the shore line.

Suddenly two giant buddha’s rose before me, and a large shrine set up between, to the right of this was a sandstone bridge with more statues, two of donkeys – not sure why – then some turtles that people were trying to flick coins into to make their wishes’ come true. A pagoda stood at the base of the mountain and a walk bridge jutted out into the ocean.

It was nothing but pleasant. I sat on the wall near the giant turtle, enjoyed watching the kids flicking coins, enjoyed the lapping of the water close to my feet and the milling about of quiet ach-goers. It was possibly the most peaceful I’d felt since getting to Hong Kong, potentially even China… again – bloody water! while I watched I was fortunate enough to watch some Christian’s being dipped (baptised) into the water, I started filming this, announcing (assuming there were no English speakers in the vicinity) “And to your left you will see CRAZY CHRISTIAN DIPPING TIME”, I heard a giggle, I flicked off the camera, I spun around to see a few ladies giggling at my rendition of a documentary… shocked at being caught by other English speakers I quickly bowed then scooted, tail between my legs, away from the site!

Oh, and incase you were wondering – as I was – why its called REPULSE BAY – so apparently around 1840 this beach was being used by Pirates… the British Army (who occupied Hong Kong at the time) were not fond of this arrangement and so REPULSED the Pirates… hence the name. A rather literal use of the word, and a cool story, so I shant complain.

Apparently now this area is the most expensive to live in, and a popular stop for tourists, there are well established hotels and from what I could see, cashed up visitors, some of whom I wonder if the ocean is their favourite place… there was one woman, who I think was a nanny by the interaction she had with some other children and a white / Chinese couple… was wearing shoes by the water, a knee to wrist black and fleuro yellow jump suit and hat to match, she walked as though hoping her feet might not touch the sand if she thought hard enough about it.

All very nice and I enjoyed sitting on the beach with my shoes off for a wee while enjoying the sun dance on the lapping waves.