Movie Buffs & Book Worm Weekend - BEIJING BABY

After a week of being unable to go out of the house due to pollution and the following week having no work due to “mid semester exams”, Robyn and I decided to throw some clothes in the back pack and head off to Beijing for a very special BOOK SEARCH weekend!

First of all… Doctor Strange. Robyn is a student of Comic Theology and was particularly keen to see Doctor Strange at the cinema. We had attempted to do so in Tangshan, but the day we went, the cinema was invariably closed without any explanation.

It only takes an hour on the speed train (running at 305kms per hour – zoom!) to get to Beijing Train Station, then the tube (they call it Subway there in a more American fashion) is relatively easy to navigate (so long as you stay calm and are not in a rush!) and it took another 45 minutes to get to the hostel.

I will admit I’ve not previously been one for hostels, in my experience they’ve been loud, smelt primarily of stale cigarette’s (which having quit two years ago I find difficult to abide – I blame the tablets I used which make scent of smoke result in nausea!), lots of people wanting have lots of conversations (as a generally anti-sociable person this can cause a reasonable amount of stress), so I’ve been fortunate in experiencing the life of a Champagne backpacker…

However, I think given its been a good five years, and I’ve potentially grown somewhat since my last adventure, I was nothing but thrilled by the accommodation. The place is called SUNLITAN YOUTH HOSTEL, the staff were welcoming, friendly and efficient, the toilets pristine and the bed comfy and clean. There was a little bar downstairs with a pool table where you could either join in a chat or a game, or just set yourself at a table with a beverage and jump on your laptop or read a book.

It had been a good few months, but low and BEHOLD! A cold GLASS of wine was offered on the menu, I almost squealed in delight when it arrived. I sat back in my chair and felt at one calm, settled, relieved and at home…

Robyn insisted that we’d be able to return to a cold vino, but for now we had places to go and movies to see!  We dropped off a few bits and bobs in our room, which was particularly hot and sticky, so we opened a window – pollution or no pollution… and headed off in to Sunlitan Area. The area is well known and almost Western in architecture and vibe.

There are outdoor restaurants, pubs and cafes, your main label shops including H&M, Converse, (really, you’re asking me to name labels? Lets just say there are labels and leave it as that… I am more of a target girl myself!).

There was a buzz in the air with couples and friends and even family, wandering around the open space, lit by the now-seemingly-natural Chinese lighting… you can see the lit-trees and then buildings in the background.

The two of us took on the labyrinth of shops and walls and escalators and finally made our way to MAGEBOX, the main Cinema complex in the area. Oooo it was big and sparkly and clean and smelled like all the good things that cinema’s should smell of.

I became distracted and started wandering about taking photos of the giant figurines of Captain America, Kung Fu Panda, the mean guys in white plastic suits from Star Wars and Iron Man!

I was abruptly called back to attention in the sorting out of tickets to Doctor Strange. We settled on 3D in another hour or so and headed off in search of some beverages and general delectables.

Keep in mind that we are somewhat limited in Tangshan to cafeteria foo, Pizza or… nope, oh! I tell a lie, there is Burger King and KFC… but sometimes, don’t you want some cheese, some potato… maybe a spot of Mexican, fish and chips…. Chicken roast or… well, you get my meaning! There  isn’t a bar street or restaurant quarter as such, so it’s quite the treat to even see all the restaurants in Beijing, let alone pop in and partake!

Did I mention cheese? If not… CHEESE!

Having purchased our tickets we headed down on of the bar streets and came across a Western looking bar, great wooden benches with wooden stub stools and lanterns hanging above. Heading inside we were greeted with a HELLO! And led to a corner spot by the window. Within moments Robyn had scouted… shock, stun, amazement… FRIED CAMEMBERT! Oh, well it was a must!

We nibbled, and drank and people watched until the time came to return to the cinema. I hate to mention this, but I shall… I appreciate a nice loo… a toilet with a bit of flare, a lavatory with some personality! Before we went in to the movie we took a pit stop at the facilities and I was amazed and delighted! Oh its shiny and flowery and there were magazines… it was like a hair dressing salon without the need to have a chat while your hair is being done!

Ok ok ok, enough of the loo! (it was particularly nice though!)

The film was… you will have to watch it to find out! But it was SO SO SO nice to go to the cinema! I’d generally go to a movie once a month, sneak out from work on a Friday a bit ahead of time and catch a nice horror (generally in Albany I was the only person in the cinema- an extra little treat).

We wandered out into the night, still buzzing with people looking for a drink, a dance or something to eat. It was different not being stared at, but in this area there are most Westerners, so Robyn and I were just part and parcel of Sunlitan.

We found a quaint little… ummm, well a mix between Mexican and Thai food… place. Hussled from the door then scooted upstairs, the place was hubbub with customers, everyone with smiles and mmm’s and aaahhh’s. Robyn grabbed a burrito and I took a quesadia and ooooo the spice and utter yumminess – it doesn’t take a fortune to have a perfectly delightful weekend!

Oh, did I mention there was white wine by the glass here as well?

I think when you’re travelling in a culture so far from your own, you do appreciate the simple things. I’d not really experienced this before, and to be honest, its what I was looking for when I first signed up for this adventure.

So, when its been six months and you’ve not had a cold glass of white wine, you are nothing but delighted when it arrives, sparking and chilled before you. When, having been eating rice and boiled veggies; crunchy lettuce and fresh herbs are used in the meal you’ve ordered, your eyes sparkle and your mouth waters in expectation and need.

Oh yeah… and there was cheese… LOTS AND LOTS OF CHEESE!

After our fill, with eyes rolling toward divinity after a delicious meal, Robyn directed us toward the well known “Mojito Man”… this is a guy with a little trolly who serves only Mojitos. There was no one there, Robyn considered turning away, but I approach the trolly in the spirit of making the most of this weekend and within moments we were both shivering the cold while sipping an ice strewn cocktail.

Not that strangely, having had us approach the Mojito Man there was suddenly a good group of other Westerner lining up to partake. People tend to follow a crowd…

We spent an evening tossing and turning in our separate beds, what for the heating. We didn’t have control over the heater that sat at the head of each of our beds, and even though the pollution was dreadful outside, we had to keep the window open but for the hope of retaining our lives!

Next day, 8am, we were up and clothed and I ran out rather quickly to escape the heat. It reminded me of being stuck in Bali and as much as I love Bali… I canny cope with the heat and humidity of November!

What to do what to do… oh? Well yes, I had an itinerary at the ready! This morning was dedicated to BOOK FINDING… to English book finding, and for Robyn, Game of Thrones book finding. Robyn has been rather severe on herself in not watching the TV show until she reads ALL of the books – I, unfortunately, lack the patience for that.

First stop PAGE ONE. Page One is in the Sunlitan Complex. It’s two stories of books, many of which being English. I could have spent a good few hours in there, and then maybe headed to the café on the balcony for some reading and tea drinking… however, Game of Thrones was not available so we continued on to BOOK WORM.

And thank goodness…

Had Game of Thrones been purchased we may never have had the absolute treat of experience the utter heart breaking, home remedy that is the Book Worm.

It is a store hidden on the second story of a building beyond the street off the main drag, you have to look to find it then climb stairs, each labelled by the names of famous (and infamous) authors. There is a board at the bottom of the stairs with flyers advertising peoples talks on different literature, different books, relevant literary and film events happening in the vicinity… ooo good gracious, I may not have the red slippers to get myself home when I need, but I can get a train ticket to Beijing and spend an afternoon at the Book Worm.

Once you ascend the stairs and open the door there is an immediate feel that almost wafts from the interior… the comforting scent of well-loved books, the subtle aroma of matches having lit candles, tea and coffee and cooking food, each subtle and yet welcoming. The red strewn ceiling and almost grandma-esque coverings over the tables, wall to wall books available to read and borrow and even enjoy during your coffee or tea or wine or meal.

Having already gone on enough, I can simply say this was fruit for the soul, my eyes stung with approaching tears simply at feeling so at peace in this homely environment. I enjoyed some delicious garlic prawns, Robyn had hummus and veggies, and we sat peacefully and tranquilly, both of us silently contemplating throwing the itinerary away and spending the day here…

HOWEVER! It takes a lot for me to turn from my itinerary and so we hit the pavement and made our way back to the subway.

When I was last in Beijing we’d attempted to see the Forbidden City, having purchased tickets for entrance in advance, sadly they’d closed the entrance before we’d arrived – apparently they only allow 80000 people through per day, which makes sense in atleast not having to replace the paving bricks every 12 months! Robyn had last visited when she was 10 or 12, so thought she might get more from the experience being a more mature individual.

The Forbidden City is the most ancient palatial city in the world, potentially the largest (but don’t quote me). It has been the home of 24 emperors and was first built in 1368 – apparently initially took 14 years and then add-ons there-after.

The reason it is called the FORBIDDEN CITY is that you were apparently FORBIDDEN to enter unless you were specifically invited by the Emperor.

I think had I seen it when I first arrived in China I would have been struck by its immensity, by the detail in the awnings of each building, by the care taking in its architecture and the design in having purpose in separate building’s.

I hate to say it, but there is a similarity in the ancient architecture I’ve seen in the places I’ve been fortunate enough to visit in China. It is as if, yes, the building is there, but the history has somehow been swept away. Strangely without the history, the magic has been displaced, dispelled… and potentially eradicated.

I know when I visited Bali and spent time in the ruins of their most important structures, you could still feel the past, and also the culture of the present. In Florence I felt lost in the romance of history, the powerful essence of what had come before… similarly in London and Bath, in Paris and Vienna and Venice, my good heavens, most profoundly in Prague where the stoney pavement had been ripped from its roots during the time of the Soviets and then replaced by the people in a gesture of love and home for their place.

It is such a bizarre thing and I’ve been trying to put my finger on it… I think the Cultural Revolution had more of an impact than I’d read about and I hate to say, but it saddens me. It’s like an element of the past has been lost, or foregone for a ‘modern future’… I don’t know who said it, but some rather smart philosopher commented that… and I’ll obviously not ever be able to articulate so beautifully… if we forget our past, we are destined to repeat it– is that what he said?

Well at any rate – I need to take some time to investigate this further, I do worry that the ancient and beautiful traditions have been lost to Socialism and modernisation… and maybe even capitalism. 

But – HOORAH! I have another 12months in China, in Tangshan infact, so much more time to see and enjoy and learn and develop and I am nothing but excited to be able to stay.

I do have a plan to go to Beijing every month, literally (no pun intended) to go to the Book Worm.. I am looking forward to the cheese platter and will keep abreast of readings in the future.

Next topic of research? The ocean! I’ve been advised there is an ocean 45 minutes train ride away so I’ll look in to the shortly.

In the meantime? Its back to teaching and when December hits I’ll be showing the kids everything from Miracle on 34^th Street to Arthur Christmas – oh… and they will be listening to Louis Armstrong, Dean Martin, Bing Crosby… maybe some female singers if I can find them!